open collector

CR2032 Tester

CR2032 tester

I was able to release a small breakout board based on a sample I received long ago from Texas Instruments. It is a CR2032 tester, based on the pretty accurate TPS3809L30DBVR part (which was derived from eevblog’s ĀµCurrent). The LED stops lighting up somewhere slightly at or below 2.64v, where most CR2032 coin cells enter end-of-life on the discharge curve.

Read more and get it made on the project page.

Toy Electroscope


Nearly a year ago, vk2zay posted a video on electrets. In it, he also shared a design for a pretty fun electroscope.

As a part of learning KiCAD earlier this year, I turned it into a PCB.

This is the latest result, now available at OSHPark as a shared project: Electroscope

The exposed copper area accepts a combination of kapton + sticky copper tape + kapton for some rudimentary shielding. LEDs are 3mm, or 0805 (imperial). The antennae are simply stripped breadboarding wire, with an arbitrary length.

If you build this, there are interesting things to test with:

  • The bags that your parts come in (a particular vendor in Minnesota has some very charged clear bags)

  • Clothing

  • Charged objects in ESD-safe bags

With the right LEDs (non-diffused and/or surface mount), people shuffling by light it up brightly, and many are curious enough to pick it up and play with it/ask curious questions, which is a nice change of pace from standard-fare EE projects.

You can get your own copy of the PCB through the OSHPark shared project page, or grab the source KiCAD files/Bill of Materials/Placement here. If you want the Gerbers used in fabrication, OSHPark has started exposing those as well, here.


Avrrrinator B Released

avrrrinator rev b

Bus Pirate 3 –> 2x AVR (ISP) adapter!

This is a really short post since the actual pages have more information. However, Avrrrinator B is now out the door. While my personal use cases have been quite limited (burning bootloaders for Arduinos, flashing blink programs/not learning my lesson with RSTDISBL), hopefully someone will find a bit of utility with this breakout.

For more information:

The Eagle source/Bill of Materials can be located here on GitHub.

The long form blog posting is here.


Panasonic PIR Breakout Board


I’ve been working on some motion sensing stuff and stumbled across Panasonic’s PIR sensors. They’re not raw sensors, but come as a mostly all in one TO-5 package.

Since the package has slender, non-breadboard friendly pins, working with it was quite unwieldy, and required alligator clips (which got tied up in knots, required careful positioning, etc).

So here is a tested breakout board for the Panasonic PIR sensors. All the good bits of information (which sensors have been tested, vendor links, etc) are in the repository’s README (just scroll down).

If you prefer to use OSHPark’s fabrication services for purpleization, a link is included to a shared project. All you need to do is to click order.


Avrrrinator Rev. A Updated


A mostly visual update to Avrrrinator Rev. A has been pushed to its repository.

There isn’t much to update with a straight Bus Pirate (3) to AVR ISP breakout, so the changes are mostly visual. A new BOM part now allows mating directly to the Bus Pirate 3, so check that out too.

As before, you can do as you like with this board under the CC0 Public Domain license.


Stop, Blink and Roll*

A little bit of the cat got out of the bag some time ago:

6 seconds of AVR flashing

You’re looking at ~24 hours of continuous AVR flashing compressed down into 6 seconds.

While I won’t be releasing the connecting PCB just yet (i’m still beating down a few issues and refining the BOM), I thought it would be good to supply the scripts I used to do the actual time lapse since it was non-obvious from a “oh dear, the contest entry is due in <48 hours isn’t it..” point of view.

Parts and Materials

  • Teensy3: Attached to the system doing the programming

  • SSD1306: OLED display showing how many times the AVR has been programmed

  • Bus Pirate 3: Acting as an AVR programmer

  • Avrrrinator Rev B: Bus Pirate to 2x AVR ISP adapter (this is the super secret “prototype” I mentioned in the YouTube post)

  • BB313 boards: Breakouts for easily attaching AVR ISP cables

  • ATtiny4313: tiny AVR for programming

  • ATtiny85: tiny AVR for programming

  • Assorted LEDs: Status indicators/Lighting

  • Logitech C920 Webcam: Takes all the pictures

Taking a picture

The small bash script invoking the gstreamer toolchain (without reading the documentation this is pretty much magic) took on the duty of taking a picture every minute. It then copied everything out via rsync to another machine with tons of spare space.

This is not properly done since my start time edged uncomfortably close to when I had to stop, edit and ship (24 hours later).

Note that this constantly writes over the same file. It stops the local disk from being clogged up by continuous snapshots. It also does not check and do anything reasonable if the rsync transfer fails.. like move the file aside/retry.

In my case, losing a few minutes worth of snapshots wasn’t a big deal for 24 hours compressed down to 6 seconds. I actually deleted quite a few frames before rendering out to video to eliminate periods of darkness (they show up as jarring sub-millisecond transitions to darkness).


while true; do
gst-launch -e v4l2src ! video/x-raw-yuv,format=\(fourcc\)YUY2,width=1920,height=1080,framerate=5/1 \
! ffmpegcolorspace ! pngenc snapshot=true ! filesink location="frame.png"

# Yup, this is talking to an actual rsyncd daemon on a NAS
RSYNC_PASSWORD="super_secret" rsync -avP frame.png rsync://rsync@storage.somewhere/frame-`date '+%s'`.png

sleep 60;

Video out

After all the frames were assembled, I manually went in and pruned a bunch that were completely dark due to the lights being off. Compressing the video down a bunch to 6 seconds took a bit of playing around, mostly with the framerate:

mencoder 'mf://*.png' -mf fps=145:type=png -ovc lavc -lavcopts vcodec=mpeg4:mbd=2:trell -oac copy -o ~/Desktop/output-yt.avi

At this point, the video quality kind of sucked, but I had to ship it.

Here is the completed video:

Code doing the programming

This is the script that refreshes the display you see. It calls avrdude to flash the AVRs and records the return code.

If it is zero, then the success counter for the AVR is incremented.

From there counts are then written to the serial port where the Teensy 3 can handle persisting the display and refreshing it with new results.

Update the Teensy3 display with avrdude results
#!/usr/bin/env python
# requires pyserial (pip install pyserial)
import subprocess
import serial

counter_4313 = 0
counter_85 = 0

failures_4313 = 0
failures_85 = 0

ser_port = serial.Serial(port='/dev/tty.usbmodem12341', baudrate=9600)

while True:
        ret_4313 = subprocess.check_call(['avrdude', '-v', '-p', 'attiny4313', '-c', 'buspirate', '-P',
        '/dev/tty.usbserial-AE01J4Q7', '-U', 'flash:w:blinky313.hex', '-x', 'reset=aux'])
    except subprocess.CalledProcessError:
        ret_4313 = 1

    if ret_4313 == 0:
        print "ATtiny4313"
        counter_4313 += 1
        failures_4313 += 1

   # Report statistics to the LCD screen
    report = "313:%s\n\n85:%s" % (counter_4313, counter_85)
        ret_85 = subprocess.check_call(['avrdude', '-v', '-p', 'attiny85', '-c', 'buspirate', '-P',
        '/dev/tty.usbserial-AE01J4Q7', '-U', 'flash:w:blinky45.hex', '-x', 'reset=cs'])
    except subprocess.CalledProcessError:
        ret_85 = 1

    if ret_85 == 0:
        print "ATtiny85"
        counter_85 += 1
        failures_85 += 1

   # We do this twice to make it look more live
    report = "313:%s\n\n85:%s" % (counter_4313, counter_85)

On the Teensy 3, the data is received and pumped out to the display. Not the greatest code, but decent enough to run for 24 hours without much of a hiccup.

Note that there are several small issues when using the SSD1306 library with the Teensy 3. I just stomped out the relevant sections after chasing down errors from the compiler (which were unrelated to SPI operation, and mostly due to i2c support).

Teensyduino + Teensy 3.0 + SSD1306 SPI OLED Display
* Flash Counter!
* Teensy 3.0 attached to a 128x64 SPI-driven OLED display
* Vendor: Adafruit
* IF YOU GET COMPILE ERRORS (you likely will!)
* Stomp out the compile errors in Adafruit_SSD1306.cpp line by line
* and everything should be OK (most of them are i2c related).
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>
#include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h>

#define OLED_DC 11      // All pin numbers correspond to    
#define OLED_CS 10  // the 'gray' labels on the welcome to 
#define OLED_CLK 14     // Teensy 3 card
#define OLED_MOSI 12    // SSD1306 labels this as: "Data"
#define OLED_RESET 9


void setup() {
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);

  // Display setup


void loop() {

  // Persist the display until we have something to display
  if( Serial.available() > 0 ) {
  display.println("AVR Program Count");
  while ( Serial.available() > 0 ) {
    digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
    char c =;

    if (c == '\n') {
    } else {
    digitalWrite(13, LOW);


And of course, blink programs. The ATtiny4313 and ATtiny85 each had their own. They’re pretty generic, (the one for the 4313 is from the BB313 website).


  • drink, if thats your thing.

Hardware Volume Controller

(5/11/13) – Hey fantastic reader: This is an old how-to (from 4/2/12!) that existed in its own self-contained repository. Reflecting back, this hack was kind of silly, but i’m porting it here to keep everything in one place.

And if you’re curious about the long-term viability of this build.. it is still kicking. The detents are a little less crisp now, but everything works a treat. (And now, back to your regularly scheduled post re-run!)

It wasn’t too long ago that volume control on a keyboard was a foreign concept. After it became a ‘feature’, that control seemed pretty normal. There is however, a slight modern exception now. Many mechanical keyboards (which have been coming back into style) don’t have them.


In response, I hacked this together. It’s a volume controller which parses a rotary encoder’s input and controls the volume (tested on OS X/Windows/Linux so far).

Parts/Bill of Materials:

  • Altoids Gum sized tin – A slick enclosure. Scratches easily though.

  • Rotary Encoder – I’ve tried a bunch. A lot of them either failed over time, or the ‘clicks’ (detents) became mushy. This one comes with a cool looking knob and is panel mountable too.

  • Adafruit Atmega32u4 Breakout – Brains of the operation. Comes with headers. For this particular project, just keep the headers for a rainy day.

  • Wire – Will need these to hook up the rotary encoder. Stranded wire is preferable since it can bend and flex.

  • Perfboard – While you can go without, the perfboard is nice to relieve the stress on the rotary encoder pins. I haven’t run across an economical source of cuttable copper-clad perf; they’re usually so large that I feel guilty slicing them apart. These seem to be the right size, but are rather thick (I haven’t sliced these apart yet). Use anything that works.

Optional (or you already have these if you’re thinking this is a good weekend project):

  • Sugru – I used this stuff to attach the board to the tin. Anything non-conductive works (determine the amount of adhesion based on your projected re-use of these parts).

  • Soldering iron + Solder – Needed to join all the parts together.

  • Mini-B USB cable – This is the cable type that the breakout board accepts.

  • Drill/set of bits – To make a hole so that the encoder can poke out of.

  • Something to cut with – For perfboard cutting, wire stripping, prying the enclosure, etc.

Electronics assembly

Start by cutting perf for the rotary encoder. Put on your safety glasses (and quite possibly a dust mask just to be extra cautious). Cutting perfboard (and other things too!) can cause pieces of it to fly into your eyeballs.

To cut the perfboard by hand, score 5-7 times along the holes that mark the edges of the cut (make sure to dry fit before cutting). I had better cuts by scoring along the entire length of the perf (although this means some perf ends up being wasted).

Once you’re ready to cut, take a pair of shears (dull diagonal cutters work too) and clip a notch where your scored lines meet the edges. This should serve as a guide for your snap (the concept is similar to tearing a notch in a piece of folded paper before ripping it apart cleanly). Slowly bend the perf where the score is and the perf should snap apart. If it resists or seems like it won’t snap along the score line, score some more and repeat.

If that fails, break out a dust mask, a pair of safety glasses (you should already be wearing these!), and just start hacksawing. It won’t be very pretty, but it should work.

The next step is to solder the encoder in. Insert the encoder and tack a leg with solder to hold it in place. Ensure everything is aligned the way you like it (check that there is room for the wiring below), and solder the rest of the pins in.

The wiring can be deceptively tricky. Measure out enough wire so that you can open/close the box. Cut, strip and tin the wires. You’ll need 5 wires.

Here is the wire mapping (looking from top to down at the rotary encoder, with three pins on top and two on the bottom):

Volume Up/Down (three pins, top)

Wire color Pin on Atmega32u4 Pin on encoder
White D0 Left-most pin
Black GND Middle pin
Red D1 Right-most pin

Mute On/Off (two pins, bottom)

Wire color Pin on Atmega32u4 Pin on encoder
Black GND Left-most pin
White B0 Right-most pin

Solder all the wires together. Once the wires are attached to the perf, blob some solder to bridge the wiring and the encoder pins together.

encoder wiring


To drill a hole for the encoder, find a bit size that matches (the datasheet says it is 6mm / .236 inches or just around a 15/64 drill bit (.234 inches)). Measure for dead center on both axes (or like a professor once told me: ‘eyeball it until your OCD stops’). Mark the drill point.

If it makes it easier, it is possible to remove the lid from the body. Simply bend the hinged tabs outward and the lid will slide off. Reverse to fit the lid back on.

You may need to brace the back of the drill area with a block of scrap wood to prevent warping. Drill from the outside in (so that all the unsightly edges are hidden somewhat). Don’t apply too much pressure (you won’t be able to undent things easily).

Once you’re done, dry fit the encoder but don’t screw it into place yet.


For the USB port, buttress the breakout board against the bottom of the enclosure and mark an approximate outline. Using a drill, begin drilling into the case (the hole won’t be large enough, but we’ll fix that in a bit). With the hole made, take your shears and carefully pry to make an opening wide enough for the USB plug to poke out. Continue to check the fit while slowly prying. Don’t worry if it looks too ugly. The USB plug covers up most of the mess.

Final assembly

Before adhering the breakout board (permanently, depending on your preference); lets test everything.


Unfortunately I haven’t had all that much luck compiling on OS X (using Homebrew packages), and I haven’t tried on Windows at all. Only Linux has worked so far. All hope is not lost however, you can manually program the breakout with avrdude! Read on to ‘Skipping all of that’.

These are the packages I have installed for Fedora which are needed to compile:

$ sudo yum -y install avr-libc avrdude avr-gcc avr-binutils git

Next, grab a copy of the LUFA git repository that includes the necessary modifications:

$ git clone git://
$ cd lufa-lib
$ git checkout -b atmega32u4-mediacontroller origin/atmega32u4-mediacontroller
$ cd trunk/Projects/MediaController
$ make all

If the compile was successful, connect the breakout board to your computer. Type the following into your console, hit enter, but don’t type in your password yet.

$ sudo make program

Going back to the breakout board, hit the white button (a green light should slowly start fading in and out indicating that the breakout is ready to be programmed). Type in your password and watch it go. If avrdude had problems finding your 32u4 breakout, run dmesg and check the output for something along the lines of ttyACM. The last part should be a number. Modify the makefile with the new port and re-run the line.

Here is what my dmesg looks like:


Skipping all of that:

If you’re on OS X or Windows.. or just don’t like compiling, get the hex file, press the white bootloader button, and run the following (a working example for OS X):

$ avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P /dev/tty.usbmodem621 -c avr109 -U flash:w:MediaController.hex

Change /dev/tty.usbmodem621 as appropriate for your platform. On OS X, if at first /dev/tty.usbmodem612 doesn’t work, use tab-completion to fill in the remaining section. Enter /dev/tty.usb and tap tab to get relevant entries when the bootloader light is active.

Finishing up: Do volume up/down and mute (pushing down on the encoder) work properly? If so, time to finish up! If not, make sure that the board is programmed (it shows up as LUFA Media Controller in dmesg, and similarly under the OS X System Profiler). Also ensure the connections between all the parts are nice and solid.

If everything is finished, open a pack of Sugru (or the adhesive you’re using), and stick things together. Next, poke the rotary encoder through the hole on the lid. Then secure it with the hardware provided and add the nice looking control knob to top it off.

Here is what mine looks like now; it is magnetically attached to the keyboard (no ill effects yet).



This project uses code and examples provided by LUFA (which is MIT licensed). Thats by Dean Camera. The code to read the rotary code comes from a posting by circuitsathome here.

Improvements, chaos, and cost reductions:

From a performance and cost perspective, the breakout used for this project is overkill; building an ATTiny breakout might be more worthwhile. Also, it might be possible to just rip the guts out of an old keyboard and use its media controller functions with some modding.

Tools for 3D Printing: What Do I Get?

Pocket level

A pocket level ensures things are reasonably level before further calibration and fine tuning

These are few of the things i’ve used/and bought over the past few months while owning a 3D printer. If you’re new to the 3D printing world (and making, in general), collecting and/or using some of these will make your life easier.

These are the basics, so you may be able to borrow these from a (friendly) maker and/or tinkerer.

Thread-locking fluid

In the first few months weeks of owning my 3D printer, I made the mistake of assembling my printer without thread-locking fluid. Of course, bolts and screws fell off during long prints causing incalculable amounts of wasted time and filament.

Thread locker (or the stuff by its popular brand name: Loctite) keeps a bolt from freeing itself (usually via vibration forces), while allowing it to be removed by hand if needed.

Adding loctite is best done during a printer build. If certain parts are constantly coming loose, working it in as needed will do too.

Part #: 91458A115 (McMaster-Carr, Loctite 243, Blue)

Stuff to make things move

For squeaks, metal on metal noises, or just for things that move and make contact, adding a few drops of lubricant is occasionally needed to keep things in good form.

Some printing guides prefer sprays (especially on vertical areas like Z-axis rods). For several months i’ve been using a liquid lubricant, which contains PTFE (without issue so far). I didn’t intend to use it for my printer, but it ended up working quite well.

Part #: 1155K33 (McMaster-Carr). You get a lot for about $5 (not including shipping of course).

Pocket level

On my particular printer, there is the potential for a lot of things to go out of alignment (either due to stresses at rest, or operator error). A small level is great for getting things into a general ball park for further fine tuning.

The Stabila Pocket Level ($10) is magnetic (the magnetized area isn’t obvious, but it is on the bottom). It also has a very clear window for viewing the bubble, and is slightly more fluid than some of the other bubble levels I have on hand.

While it is a bit expensive for a smaller level (slightly larger levels like torpedo levels are well within or below its price), this is a pretty good quality level that seems like it will last.

It will also (unlike torpedo levels) fit into areas with very little clearance.

What does it look like? Scroll up a bit. :)

Part #: Stabila 11990 Pocket Level – (Amazon)

Cable/zip ties

If your printer looks anything like mine, nearly everything (including the pullies and even some of the linear bearings) are held together by these ties. And sometimes readjusting things means cutting those ties.

For a few bucks you can stop cursing while trying to find a replacement tie.

Part #: 7130K41 (McMaster-Carr). These are the smaller ‘micro’ zip ties, and come in a large enough pack to stave off regret at the amount of zip tie waste you’re bound to generate.

Long screwdriver/racheting driver

Who doesn’t have a screwdriver? (Answer: A person who needs one right now.)

A ratcheting driver makes a surprising difference on a printer.

I’ve been quite happy with a Stanley Ratcheting Screwdriver ($10). The shortened turn in ratchet mode is great when working in tight spaces (where it is hard/annoying to do “full” turns).

This particular driver comes with several extra bits hidden in the endcap and has the ability to become a normal/fixed screwdriver with a twist of the knob.

Normal screwdrivers are more than enough though, and this is really just optional.

Part #: Stanley 69-189 Ratcheting Multi-Bit Screwdriver – (Amazon)

Other accessories

These are parts that I have no specific recommendation for, but once you have them you may wonder what you did without them!

Straight tweezers

At working temperatures, the extruder gets really hot. And print beds do as well. To save yourself from getting actual 3D printing battle scars, get a pair of tweezers to pluck out stray strands of filament.

During warm up, just use the tweezers to pluck at the extruder, or to scrape off a small starting failure/error from the bed that has failed to adhere.

It is likely that you wouldn’t want to use an ESD-style tweezer (they’re often colored black with a matte finish). Mostly this is because some of them have a lightly applied coating that scratches easily. Save the ESD tweezers for sensitive electronics work.

Flush cutters

Cutting filament is kind of an afterthought, but it needs to be done (usually when loading and unloading new/used filament). A pair of throwaway flush cutters will make doing so quick and easy.

It probably isn’t a good idea to use new or flush cutters you love. Certain plastics like PLA are fairly hard, which may cause faster wear and tear on cutters. Then again, decent cutters can be had for a good price nowadays (Xcelite cutters are pretty decent! Mouser Part #: 578-175M).

Detachable/Reusable spool

Using filament freestyle without any sort of management is a recipe for disaster over time. Many of my early troubles were due to buying spool-less, (but wound filament) and trying to wing it without a spool.

If I went to sleep, got a drink or otherwise looked away for a bit, the filament would somehow find a way to tangle, feed incorrectly, or do nasty things like snap (after tensing up due to tangling).

After resorting to hacks, (like turning the filament bag itself into a spool holder), I got kind of fed up and decided to just get a reusable spool.

A decent one for small quantities (1 lb, or 454 grams for everyone else), consists of a spool that can have the side detached (usually via screws) and filament loaded in.

I’ve found that the filament doesn’t necessarily have to be completely flush with the hub for small quantities (perhaps ½ a pound or less), just ‘enclosed’ by the spool walls.

Some good features to look out for are pre-drilled holes to put the filament ends into, and a standard diameter/width size (if you’ll be using multiple spools with a particular spool feeding system/holder).

For most spool setups, they should be mounted on some sort of holder where the filament can be pulled into the extruder smoothly (and consistently).

Spool holder

There are plenty of examples on Thingiverse of spool holders. Some can be purchased for $8 and some can be made out of PVC pipe. Don’t forgo this for too long, as it is a pretty good addition to your printing kit if it isn’t already built-in to your printer.

Tongue-and-Groove Pliers

Otherwise known as Channellocks (which is also the name of the company that created them), these pliers are pretty great to have around, either to remove a print with brute force (if necessary, and if your print allows for it), or for tightening things.

If you don’t have these already, they can be cheaply had at many stores (McMaster-Carr also sells them), and are useful for other things around your home as well.


This is usually required by every “Welcome to your brand new 3D printer!” guide. You’ll need one to calibrate things like extrusion amounts (when loading new filament) and to bring physical objects into CAD for printing.

Be sure to do extra research on the different types of calipers out there, as quality can vary a lot between types (veiner vs digital) and brands (Mitutoyo vs dollar store type).

Blue Painter’s Tape

A spool of something like ¼” 3M Blue Painters’ Tape will work very well as a surface for your PLA print to adhere to (as long as the first few layers are pressed down into the tape proper). The larger width also makes resurfacing fairly easy.

(ABS users will want to look into Kapton/Polyimide tape or squares)

Best of luck in your printing adventures!


Errata / Changes

05/09/13: Clarifications and basic fixes

Printable Divider for the 10164 Storage Drawer

Storage drawer divider

This is a 3D printable small drawer divider for the Akro-Mils 10164 parts cabinet.

The clear drawers themselves have a nice little slot for partitioning, so this divider fits right in and sits snugly without bowing out the drawer.

While there are several dividers that come attached to the back of the cabinet (which are manually de-paneled by the end consumer), they’re very limited in quantity.

So if you have a 3D printer of some sort, or want to play with the model enough to make it ‘go’ on a laser cutter/CNC, give this a shot.

Keep in mind that this will not fit the larger drawers like on the 10144.

Download the STL file here.

To prevent ambiguities, the license for this (simple work) is WTFPL. Feel free to remix it, and do as you wish without reading walls of text.


The Avrrrinator (Revision A)

avrrrinator rev a

A simple Bus Pirate v3 to AVR adapter. This was made to simplify wiring between the v3 Bus Pirate and an AVR ISP header. Tested with the BB313, and ATTiny4313/85s.

Add a 3 pin header and a jumper to power the target AVR from the Bus Pirate (for normal operation, programming, etc).

Check out the “Other work in this field” section below for other adapters as well (some of them support multiple protocols and programmers).

Make one for yourself

Grab a zip file of the entire repository by clicking here.

The .brd file is in the hardware/revA folder.

From there, you can generate your own Gerber files using Eagle and send them off, or use a service which processes the Eagle board file for you.

If you don’t already have a preferred fabricator, please give OSHPark a shot. OSHPark will take the .brd file, panel it and return your boards in a few weeks. It is also run by a very awesome person.

See the “Bill of Materials” section for information on parts.

Notes & next revision improvements

The silkscreen is really small in some areas. This will be changed in a future run. If making one for yourself, feel free to change the silkscreen text sizes around, and add a miniature dinosaur.

Bill of Materials


1x: Avrrrinator PCB


These parts are from Mouser:

1x: 151-8033-E – Red jumper for power selection

1x: 517-9612066404AR – 6 pin ISP header

1x: 649-68004-236 – Strip of header (enough for both the 10 pin Bus Pirate header and the 3 pin power select switch)


If you don’t already have the necessary cables, pick these up. Both are needed since one connects to the Bus Pirate, and the other connects to the AVR:

These parts are from Adafruit:

1x: 10-pin Socket/Socket IDC cable (6”)

1x: 6-pin Socket/Socket IDC cable (6”)

Optional parts

1x: 538-90130-1110 (Mouser) – BP box connector. This hasn’t been tested or soldered in, but it appears to fit comfortably within the layout of the board.


Bus Pirate AVR Programming

Other work

Dangerous Prototypes’ PIC+AVR programmer

A Bus Pirate Breakout Board for different protocols (which includes an ISP header)